Archive for March 10th, 2008
JAPANESE SUMMER WEAR – JIMBEI
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A number of years ago, I made this jinbei or traditional Japanese summer menswear for my husband, Yutaka, seen modeling in the picture above. He had not worn it for a few years and we had trouble finding the jacket, put away in the closet somewhere. I learned many fine sewing points while making this. First of all, the jacket is not completely traditional. The picture appeared in a magazine for men who wanted cool and light clothes for summer but don`t want to look like old men. There is nothing tailored about it at all, yet it took a lot of time and effort. There is a sort of patchwork (or to be more precise – insets) feel to the jacket and instead of the traditional string ties, it has a double-breasted look with buttons placed low on the side. The most important thing I learned was about marking and basting. These two time-consuming yet simple steps are the difference between a garment that looks homemade and something that looks professional and well made. I have to admit I don`t always do them. Sometimes I just need to put something together to keep my hands and mind busy. The difference is plain for me to see. Carefully marking the pattern to the cloth and then basting the pieces together before sewing keeps the seams flat and crisp. If you press as you go, there is no trouble when it is time to put in the sleeves on a jacket, a zipper in a dress or a pair of pants, pockets and waistbands. These are all the things that patterns, books and teachers tell us, but to actually see and feel how well a garment is put together can make one a better shopper as well. Whether you shop in a discount store, department store, outlet or flea market, odds are if you are a careful seamstress/dressmaker you can immediately tell if a piece of clothing is well made or not. Sometimes, if a fad comes along and you want to join in, you can choose to spend money on something that is well constructed for a higher price, or, maybe you think that fad won`t last but the clothing you just bought will get you through until the end of the fad, for a much lower price. It is up to you but you can make an informed choice. By taking your time and paying attention to details you can end up with something you can be proud of, like I am of this jinbei I made when I attended fashion school here in Japan.
6 comments March 10, 2008